Craftsman Foundation Repair

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(619) 736-6951Call Visit WebsiteVisit Website Map & DirectionsDirections3528 Adams AveSan Diego, CA 92116 Write a ReviewWrite Review

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Mon - Fri:	7:30 am - 5:00 pm

Craftsman Foundation Repair

Kitchen Remodeling
After he spends 10 minutes describing the project in detail, I try to wheedle the address out of him. Now, this is typically tough with these guys, because I guess he’s concerned I will steal this job from him somehow. But, I have no interest in dry walling, painting, replacing windows, setting tile, etc. He should have no interest in doing foundation work, just like I don’t do granite countertops or eat sushi-not my bag, man.

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San Diego’s Premier Foundation Repair Company

General Info

Raised Foundation and Raised Slab Professionals

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Services/Products

Foundation Replacements, Geotechnical Repairs, Slab Repairs, Floor Leveling, Retaining Walls, Epoxy Injection.

Brands

FREE ESTIMATES

Payment method

cash only

Location

San Diego, El Cajon, La Mesa, Coronado, Chula Vista, National City, Lemon Grove and Spring Valley.

Neighborhoods

Mid-City, Adams North

Amenities

Vintage Home Restoration Experts

Accreditation

BONDED

INSURED

STATE CERTIFIED SPECIALTY LICENSE # 685993

LICENSED

Associations

BBB Member San Diego

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http://www.craftsmanfoundation.com

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Details

Phone: (619) 736-6951

Address: 3528 Adams Ave, San Diego, CA 92116

Website: http://www.craftsmanfoundation.com

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Craftsman Foundation Repair

Kitchen Remodeling
After he spends 10 minutes describing the project in detail, I try to wheedle the address out of him. Now, this is typically tough with these guys, because I guess he’s concerned I will steal this job from him somehow. But, I have no interest in dry walling, painting, replacing windows, setting tile, etc. He should have no interest in doing foundation work, just like I don’t do granite countertops or eat sushi-not my bag, man.
Flooring
A more benign issue is the unknown slab problem. I live in a slab house,and like them fine, but I prefer older raised foundation homes. Why? They are easy to see. I can look in the sub area, and the problems are easier to figure out. Slabs are hidden by flooring. So the typical conversation goes like this-
Door Installation/Replacement
Drywalls
Answer: Sloping towards the downhill over 1/2” in 20 feet. Recent paint and patching of drywall and stucco. Doorways that slope or stick. Try to pull carpeting to examine the slab. I recommend hiring a soils engineer if you have any questions. Better to know ahead of time!
Basement Remodeling
Framing
Okay, so you say, “I hired a licensed contractor, with insurance and all that. I got three bids and hired the least expensive.” Well, good for you. Let me tell you another story. I bid a foundation replacement three years ago. I got a call last week from the gentleman who had hired “the low bid”. The contractor got a permit, ostensibly did it all correctly. Or did he? My inspection revealed the following: Plywood forms left in place against the stemwalls in the crawlspace (too hard to remove...). Floors not leveled (it’s too late now...). The joists were not blocked (too late now). Framing done with screws (not structural). The inspector can’t catch everything. But most importantly, THE POSTS AND PIERS WERE NOT REPLACED. Needed to be done, not included in the bid, hence the “cheap” price. Now, it’s harder to do after the fact, and more expensive. Suddenly the “cheapest” price is the most expensive.
Tile Installation
Carpeting
Cabinet Installation

New Construction
Demolition
At this point, we recommend that a competent engineer evaluate the property, a repair plan and permits be secured, and proper repairs made. At minimum, it should be anticipated that the excess soil be removed from the sub area, the post and piers should be replaced, the perimeter framing and bolting be repaired, the installed beam be evaluated, and any other issues that are discovered are addressed. Due to the generally extremely poor implementation of the repairs we observed and the likelihood of issues with the footings consisting of inadequate steel coverage, unsure footing depth, improperly cleaned footings, suspect quality of concrete and the likelihood of soil movement in our opinion a complete replacement as per our original bid, with the additional costs of demolition of the existing may be warranted. Cost for this work including plans, permits and engineering is $39,825. Please note that additional costs for siding repair, paint, plaster or other cosmetic repairs are not included.
Foundation Installation

Landscaping and Fencing

Landscaping
Yes, it’s that simple. By using proper drainage to reduce the extreme saturation in the winter, and having landscaping that you water in the summer to keep a little moisture in the soil, you can minimize the effects. It’s that balance, that Zen of water if you will, that you are striving for.
Excavation
Not to say a legitimate contractor can’t be a problem. Here’s another horror story for you. I just bid a job that was to finish what one of my competitors started. (Remember, I said I wouldn’t mention names). The job has been sitting for a YEAR! Heck, the client had a baby during construction that’s talking. His first words? “Contractor’s Suck!” The original job was for $65,000. The Contractor had been paid $29,000, had done all the supporting and most of the excavation, but left the job. He got sick; his wife left him, etc. In pricing the completion, I believe the real reason is that he was going to lose his rear on the job. He even offered to supervise the job and let the homeowner hire the workers directly-for a fee! So the client uses laborers from the Home Depot parking lot? Once again, the risk is on the homeowner.
Retaining Walls

Window Installation/Replacement
One of the most important sources of future work for us is real estate. In California, (as well as the rest of the country, I imagine) buyers inspect the homes they are purchasing prior to closing escrow, and often the issue of foundations comes up. And we get a call, look at the problem, and provide cost estimates. We also look at houses for people prior to selling, as well as regular homeowners. People are trying to get an idea of what work should be done so they are not surprised when they sell, or to protect their investment. Most people want to know that their house is safe and well maintained. It is also important, particularly on the older houses we work on, that any remodeling is done correctly, and in the right order. Leveling floors needs to be done BEFORE the windows and doors are installed. Otherwise, you cannot level the floors without ruining all the previous work. As foundation contractors, we are typically first in, to prevent future damages to the improvements being made to the house.
Decks
Patios
Now, it’s as much an art as a science, and there are a lot of ways to get there. I will lay out the basics that can really help you. First, I always recommend raingutters. Specifically, seamless aluminum raingutters (I like copper too, but they are a bit more pricy). The downspouts need to be routed to direct water away from the house, into pipes if necessary. These pipes can also be used for area drains in patios and yards, but dollar for dollar, raingutters are the most effective way to keep water away from the house. Think of it this way: If it rains an inch in a day, and it drains off a 10 foot section of roof (most roof sections are twice that) then you have a concentration of 10” of water directly adjacent to your foundation. Shall I say it? OK....That’s very bad.
Gutters
Answer: A crack of this size is relatively small. First, you should try to determine the cause of the crack. Is there a leak under the slab? Poor drainage? No gutters? Once these issues are addressed, a crack of this size most likely could be repaired by Epoxy Injection. The concrete is bonded back to original condition, and should not crack again provided the cause is properly addressed.
Siding
We propose to support and lift the house with hydraulic jacks, remove 98 lineal feet of the existing perimeter foundation at the sides and front of the original house, and to pour in place a new foundation. We will perform a floor level survey and level the floors prior to pouring the foundation. We will install an additional row of 4×6 beams as necessary for supporting and leveling the floors. The new perimeter foundation will consist of the following: A stemwall 8 inches thick, reinforced with two pieces of 1/2 inch rebar placed horizontally. This will sit on a footing 15 inches wide, 24 inches deep, reinforced with four pieces of 1/2” rebar continuous. Foundation bolts will be 5/8 by 12 inches including a 3” square washer, and will be galvanized, placed at 4-foot intervals around the perimeter as well as within 12” of corners and connections between sections of sill plate. The concrete will be rated at a minimum of 2500 P.S.I. We will replace the entire sill plate with new 3×8 pressure treated fir and provide full blocking and double the rim joist. We will add Simpson A35 connectors at 24” intervals between the new sill and the blocking/rim joist, as well as between the bottom plate of the wall and the blocking/rim joist. The posts and piers will be upgraded and added with precast concrete strapped piers placed at 4’ intervals, placed on 16” square concrete pads, 12” deep, and with new pressure treated 4×4 posts. The poured pads will be reinforced with 1/2” rebar placed in a grid. We will strap post to beam connections with Simpson AC4 straps. We will strap the beam to joist connections with Simpson HST2.5 straps. We will remove and replace the adjacent concrete flatwork as necessary to access the foundation. We will place temporary restroom facilities on site for the duration of the project. We have not included landscaping, painting, siding, plaster or other cosmetic repairs. We will supply all necessary supervision, labor, and materials for completion of the project. We will provide the historic review, engineering, plans and permits necessary for the foundation replacement. Cost for this work is $32,825.
Porches
I must point out that my advice here is specifically aimed at older homes, but is generally true for all houses. In San Diego, we have large areas of older homes built on clay soil. Clay soil is expansive, which means it swells up when it gets wet, and shrinks when it dries out. This change is often seasonal. Wet in the winter and dry in the summer. When wet clay expands, it doesn’t really lift the house up, but expands up around the foundation (in an action we call “pumping”) like when you step in mud, and the soil bulges up around your shoe. The house moves relatively little from the increase in water in the soil. The problem is when the soil dries out in the hot So Cal summer, the ground dries, starts shrinking, and causes the foundation to settle. This is exacerbated by water that has intruded under a house and into the crawlspace. This soil takes longer to dry, causing the middle to settle later than the perimeter. This can also cause the perimeter to rotate out as the exterior dries and the interior stays wet. Also, the north side of the house is the shady side, and the south gets the sun. So one side dries out sooner, maybe doesn’t get as saturated. Porches, sidewalks, roofs that drain to the sides but not the front, all these variables also can cause differential settlement. Add uneven watering patterns or lack of irrigation, and the variables become quite daunting. Overwhelmed? Me too....

Painting

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